Wroclaw

Wroclaw has one of the biggest Christmas Markets in Europe. It is also home to over 600 bronze gnomes scattered around the streets.

Travelling to Wroclaw

We flew to Wroclaw in the month of November from Manchester Airport with Ryanair which cost £29 return plus extra for seats and case which added another £30 each. We mainly went to Wroclaw to visit the Christmas Market. Private transfers from the Airport took around 30 minutes.

Accommodation

The apartments we stayed in were Riverside Apartments booked through Booking.com. It was a one-bedroomed apartment with a sofa bed, dining area and fully equipped kitchen. Although the apartments were described as having a river view there wasn’t much of the river to be seen. The apartment was on the top floor and the building did not have a lift therefore we wouldn’t recommend it for anyone who has any mobility issues as it was up 8 flights of stairs. The location of the apartment was close to public transport. It was also about 15 minutes’ walk from the main square of Wroclaw. Although the apartment was basic it met our needs and the location was good.

Christmas Market

The Christmas Market is set up across the main square. It is lovely during the day but looks even prettier at night when all of the stalls are lit up. Basically the market is centred around the square but due to the sheer size of it, it stretches way outside of the square and along the side streets. There are so many stalls selling a variety of items such as hats, gloves, food and drink, and souvenirs. It was so interesting seeing the different local foods and items for sale.

Christmas Market

Straightaway we tried Meat Pierogi (which is a bit like a meat dumpling) as they looked so good. This is a must try when in Poland. We subsequently tried Paczki which is similar to a doughnut but we found this a bit too sweet for our taste. Overall there were so many Polish foods to try which all looked good but we did not manage to taste a lot of them. There are several places that sell various flavours of mulled wine served in little mugs shaped like boots.

Mulled wine

It is thought the idea of putting the mulled wine in boots comes from the Western Christian tradition that on St Nicholas Day (5th December) children put boots out for their presents to be put into. Obviously we had to try most of the flavours of the mulled wine which were all different – our favourites were the red wine based ones. Additionally they served hot chocolate and coffee with rum which was also very nice. The hot drinks were needed as it was very cold.

It was lovely just wandering around the market and looking around the different stalls. There is also a lovely smell from the market that is a combination of the sweet doughnuts, sausages and the mulled wine. It always makes you feel hungry even if you are not wanting to eat due to the nice smells. It is a great atmosphere and definitely puts you in the Christmas spirit.

Food stalls

Places of interest

There are lots of interesting places to visit in Wroclaw away from the main square. We went to Otrow Tumski (Cathedral Island) on a beautiful crisp, sunny day. This is the oldest part of Wroclaw. It is just a short walk from the square and well worth visiting. You can go into the Cathedral and walk around free of charge. You can also walk halfway up to the top of the Cathedral but if you want to go to the very top then you have to pay a small amount to do so.

Cathedral Island

We also went to see the sculptures in Wroclaw of people sinking into and rising out of the ground (“Przefscie” which translates to “Passage”). These statues were built in memory of people that were killed or went missing during the period of martial law in Poland that occurred during the 1980s.

We also spent a short time looking for the bronze gnomes that are scattered around the streets of Wroclaw. It isn’t clear exactly how many of them they actually are. You can buy maps and brochures to try and track them all if you have the time to do so. It would take some time as there are said to be over 600. A lot of the gnomes are sponsored by businesses therefore you will find many of them outside their premises.

One of the many bronze gnomes

Dinning out

There are many places to eat and drink in Wroclaw catering for every taste and budget. Besides the traditional polish restaurants there are the typical chain restaurants, fast food restaurants, and others specialising in the usual Italian, Spanish and French cuisine. There are also many take away places where you can get your curry or kebab fix if you need it.

Many people on an evening if not eating at the Christmas market would spend the time over a meal and a bottle of wine at one of the restaurants.

Stalls set up for food in the Christmas Market

Basically we ate at the Christmas market as this is why we were in Wroclaw. Also we ate at a French Bistro/Cafe called FC Nalesniki which is just a short walk from the Market Square. We had savoury pancakes which were delicious and a soft drink each which came to less than 10 Euros. There were a few bars around the square which did not get really busy. We went to a Irish Pub called Pub Guiness. There was live music on each night. This bar was busy both during the day and of an evening. It is only a short walk from the Market Square. Prices were similar to those in the UK.

FC Nalesniki

Summary

To summarise Wroclaw is a beautiful place both day and night. This was our first visit to Wroclaw for the Christmas market therefore can not comment on what it is like in the summer months but we are sure that it would bring a different experience to the visit. We especially loved the Christmas Market and its atmosphere. Previously we have been to the Christmas Market at Gdansk before but we preferred Wroclaw. It snowed whilst we were there which made it feel really Christmassy. The snow did get quite heavy at times, particularly on the night before we were due to leave so we were a bit worried if this would affect our flight, but we needn’t have done so. Nothing changed due to the snow; everyone went about their business as usual unlike in the UK when everything comes to a standstill.

Images

Things to do

  • Visit Cathedral Island
  • Visit the Market Square
  • Visit the Royal Palace
  • Visit University Botanical Garden
  • Visit Ractawice Panorama
  • Visit the Christmas Market
  • Visit Rrzefscie (Passage)
  • Search for the Bronze Gnomes

Top Tips

  • Look on Skyscanner for cheapest flights.
  • If going for the Christmas Market remember this normally starts on the last weekend in November.
  • When booking somewhere to stay check the location. We felt that is was better to be close to the Market Square.
  • Ensure you take warm clothing if going for the Christmas Market.
  • The Christmas Market is also great for children. Aswell as the stalls it has a small fun fair.
  • Check out other places we have visited in Poland. Gdansk
  • Check out the weather for best time to visit.

Weather

Temp – Celsius
Rain – mm
JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
High Temp 3591520232525201584
Low Temp-4-3048121414951-3
Rainfall302535306060956045353030
Number of days8687881088778
Average daily temperatures and rainfall

Gdansk

Gdansk is a city on the Baltic coast of nothern Poland.

The city is said to take its name from the Gdania River which is the original name of the Motlawa River

Travelling to Gdansk

We flew to Gdansk in November from Leeds and Bradford Airport. The flights to Gdansk only cost us £39 return. We flew out on a Friday for a long weekend. Our main reason for visiting Gdansk was the Christmas Market. Fortunately as we live on around 20 minutes drive from the airport this was very convenient.

Accommodation

In advance we booked an apartment on Air b n b in the centre of Gdansk The apartment was very clean with contemporary furnishing and very stylish. The location was excellent as it was only a short walk to the river and shops, restaurants and bars. There are many nice apartments for rent in good locations and at a reasonable price. We paid £150 for 3 nights which was excellent value. The apartment had everything we needed with a fully equipped kitchen, lounge area, bathroom and good sized bathroom.

Accommodation

Nightlife

In Gdansk there are lots of bars and even an Irish Bar. The Irish bar is what you would expect which is full of people from the UK. Some of the bars are the same price as what you would pay in England. The Polish shot bar is very cheap. As the name suggests it mainly sells shots which people buy around 10 at a time but you can get larger and wine too. A glass of wine cost around £1.50 in the Polish shot bar in other bars cost around £6. The bar is very lively every night so it is well worth a visit if you are wanting to hit the bars.

Christmas Market

Whilst we were in Gdansk we went to the Christmas Market which was lovely. It was very cold but we had come prepared with warm clothes, gloves etc. At the Christmas market they sold the most amazing rum and apple mulled wine. Not only did it taste lovely but on a cold also warmed you up. We might have had quite a few on them whilst we were there purely to keep us warm lol.

Christmas Market

Market Food

At the market there were a lot of stalls selling traditional Polish food, Pertogi (polish dumplings), various pastries (not sure what these were called), Placki Ziemniaczane (Potato pancakes), Zrazy (Beef rolls), various polish sausage etc. There were lots of stalls where you could sit down, eat and drink. There were also many stalls selling arts, crafts and Christmas decoration. It was a lovely market and well worth the visit.

Stall selling food and drink

Food and Drink

The Golden Gate leads to the Dlugi Targ the main walk through Gdansk. it is not very long approximately 500 metres long. Café, shops, bars and restaurants line the walk. The restaurants cater for all tastes of food from Italian, Indian, Polish, Spanish etc. This walk is very busy all day long with both tourists and locals. There are so many beautiful buildings in Gdansk.It has a wealth of history with many museums.

Dlugu Tarq or AKA Long Market

Motlawa River

Walking along the Motlawa river was lovely both day and night again lots of nice places to eat and drink. We stayed at one side of the river but crossed over to the other where there were some lovely shops and coffee places. The coffee shops sold amazing hot chocolate which was great on the cold mornings.

Motlawa River

Whilst walking near the river we came across a man who had a spectacular motor bike. He had various props, items of clothing that you could put on and have a photo taken on his motorbike for a small fee. It was great fun doing this and having photo’s that bring a smile when you look at them.

Summary

Like most places we have visited there never seems enough time to see and do everything you want to. We were only in Gdansk for a few days but we definitely made the most of it. We would definitely recommend visiting Gdansk it is such a beautiful place

Images

Things to do

  • Go to the Christmas Market
  • Try the Rum and Apple Mulled Wine,
  • Try some of the Polish traditional foods.
  • Walk along the Motlawa river.
  • Have something to eat or drink on the Dlugi Targ.
  • Visit the Polish Shot Bar if you are out to sample the night life.

Top tips

  • If going to Gdansk in the winter months ensure you have plenty of warm clothing.
  • There are a lot of tourist type bars which do charge more than the bars aimed at the locals. Check out the local bars.
  • The Christmas market in Gdansk was lovely and a good time to go for a fun and cheap long weekend. Christmas market starts late November. Dont forget to try the Rum and Apple mulled wine.
  • We found that the Airbnb was very reasonable in price, centrally located, exceptionally clean, lovely décor and gave us lots of space for our stay.
  • If you are flexible with your dates to travel Skyscanner can search the whole month and advise of cheapest time to travel.
  • Check out other destination we have visited in Poland Wroclaw
  • Check out government safety advice when visiting Gdansk https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/poland

Weather

Temp – Celsius
Rain – mm
JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
High Temp 1141016182121161141
Low Temp-4-4-31691212840-4
Rainfall312419323358737053382939
Number of days9757781098879
Average daily temperatures and rainfall