Safari/Nairobi

Travelling to Kenya

Accommodation night before flight

We flew to Nairobi from Heathrow Airport on Sunday 11th September with British Airways. The day before we were due to fly we stayed at the Thistle Hotel at Heathrow Airport. We asked if we could have a twin room due to one of us snoring (Mike). We were advised that this would be an extra £30 which we thought was a bit too much as we were still only staying in one room therefore we didn’t do this. To access the rooms from the reception area there was a small ramp which was only wide enough to pull one suitcase up. This wasn’t great as we had two suitcases each and it would have been better if the ramp was wider. The rooms were clean and not too bad a size.

Food and drink at the Thistle hotel

There was a nice bar upstairs with a large outside seating area which overlooked the runway. This could have been an amazing place to sit and have a drink whilst watching the planes but it was a bit dated and in need of a bit of TLC. Despite this it was still lovely to sit outside as it was a nice warm day. We did have an issue with trying to find someone to serve us as there was nobody behind the bar for some time. Breakfast at the hotel was very good with a wide variety including full English, cereals, pastries, fruit and yoghurt. This hotel is well located with a bus stop right outside the hotel which takes you directly to the airport by local bus in under 10 minutes. This hotel could be far better if it had just had a bit of money spending on it as it did look a bit run down in certain areas. We would though still recommend this hotel for its location and value for money. We paid for a one night stay which included 14 days parking.

On the day of our flight we had not booked an executive lounge which we normally do due to no availability. Instead we had a couple of drinks in Wetherspoons which was a bit different to the bubbles and fizz of the lounges.

Flight to Nairobi

We were fortunate to get business class flights with British Airways which is a lovely way to travel. Our excuse was that we were unable to get in to the lounge therefore we made up for the lack of fizz by having a few glasses on the flight. It was lovely to have Champagne before you have even left the runway.

The food and cocktails on the flight were excellent. The comfort of a flat bed on the flight was definitely a big bonus as you don’t wake up with a stiff neck as you are able to lie down and enjoy the in-flight entertainment. The flight to Nairobi was 8 hours and 50 minutes which is not too long.

Passport control Nairobi

When we arrived in Nairobi it was horrendous getting through passport control. It took over one and a half hours from getting off the plane to leaving the airport. Although it appeared to be a pain in the posterior at the time we understood this is for everyone’s safety and security.

Whilst we were waiting to go through passport control we were contacted several times by our transfer. We were a bit worried that the driver might leave due to the length of time it took us to get through the immigration process. As we came out of the airport we were expecting someone to be stood there with our names on a board but unfortunately not! Thankfully our transfer contacted us again and took us to our waiting car. We had booked a return transfer through Booking.com https://www.booking.com at a cost of £35.

Nairobi accommodaton

We stayed at the Boma (Red Cross Street) which is a 20-30 minute drive from the airport. The cost of the hotel was £100 per night. It was almost midnight when we arrived therefore it was very quiet. Check in was very quick with helpful, polite members of staff. The concierge took our cases to the room. We had emailed the hotel prior to arriving to request a twin room which was agreed but when we got to our room it was a double room. Reception quickly rectified this and gave us a twin room. The rooms are very spacious with a desk and mini-fridge in the room. The bathroom was also spacious with a separate shower and bath. Our room overlooked the swimming pool which was lit up at night. Unfortunately we can’t say what the pool was like as we went on our safari the next morning. Breakfast at the hotel was impressive with something for everyone consisting of hot food including sausage, eggs and bacon, cereals, fruit, pastries and breads. Drinks were waiter/waitress service which was a nice touch. All the staff we came in contact with at the hotel were lovely and did their best to meet our needs.

Travel to Safari

The following morning we were picked up at 7.30 by Axis Africa Safari. We had booked this through Safari Bookings https://www.safaribookings.com/. Our driver was Sylvia who was very chatty and made the journey very pleasant. She was also a safe driver which is unusual in Nairobi as everyone seemed to drive in a somewhat crazy manner.  We hit rush-hour traffic so it took us around 40 minutes to get to our destination.

We were taken to an awaiting jeep in the centre of Nairobi. On the jeep there was a family of four and a single man. We then headed on out of Nairobi to start our journey to the safari. The journey to the Masai Mara took around 6 hours with a couple of stops.

The Great Rift Valley

Our first stop was to view The Great Rift Valley. We pulled up at the side of the road along with many other jeeps. We spent around 15 minutes here which gave us time for photos and to get a drink if necessary as there was a small shop. The view was spectacular and worth stopping for. We did see some wildlife too, including some colourful birds and many Red Rock Rats.

Refreshment stop

At the second stop there was time for drinks, food and a toilet break. This was a popular place for tourists to stop as there were many other jeeps here. At the stop there was also a shop selling hand carved animals, paintings and many other interesting souvenirs. This is a very expensive place to buy gifts.  We bought them elsewhere at a fraction of the cost.

The roads to the Masai Mara were of a decent standard and therefore the journey wasn’t too bad. However the last 45 minutes of the journey was on a dirt track which was extremely bumpy. Our driver Geeman said we were getting a free 45 minute body massage!  Geeman was very informative throughout the journey and humorous which made for a fun trip.

Safari Accommodation

When we arrived at our accommodation, the Jambo Safari Lodge, at around 3.30 we were greeted by porters who took our cases. Check-in was very quick and easy. We were then shown to our room, an upgrade to a glass lodge which we had chosen rather than one of the tents which are also available at a cheaper cost.

As we entered the room we were pleasantly surprised – the room was lovely. The bathroom was tiled with a walk-in shower and double sink. The room was equipped with a clean king-sized bed, desk, wardrobe, seating area, toiletries and free water.

On the outside there was a large balcony overlooking the forest where there were many monkeys. We were advised to keep the balcony door locked at all times as the monkeys know how to open them.  We had not paid luxury prices therefore had not expected a room as nice as this. We had booked a mid-range safari for 3 days at a cost of US$570 which is around £470.

The lodge also had a swimming pool which is a nice touch if you are staying a bit longer and not going on Safari everyday. Unfortunately although the pool looked very inviting it was too cold to have a dip in it when we had returned from the Safari. We did see people in it on a number of occasions.

Lodge Food and Drink

Prior to setting off on our evening safari we had our evening meal at the lodge. Meals were included in the cost of the safari but drinks were extra, although very reasonably priced.  Wine was only served by the bottle which we found a bit disappointing as we sometimes only want a glass.  Bottles of Tusker Cider and Lager were around £2.50. The restaurant was fairly basic but we did expect that. The choice of food wasn’t particularly extensive but there was always something to eat that we enjoyed. The quality of the food was also good. It consisted of the usual buffet-type menu, a meat dish, a chicken dish, a fish dish, a vegetarian dish, vegetables, salads, breads and cakes. The staff in the restaurant were very attentive and willing to help.

Safari

The jeep arrived to pick us up at 6.30pm on our first day for an evening Safari. It was amazing to see a range of different animals as soon as we had left the drive of our lodge. There were many giraffes and zebras. Some of the other animals took a bit of looking for. On the first day of our safari we didn’t see all of the big five but did see some wonderful animals in their natural habitat (giraffes, zebras, gazelles, elephants, wildebeest, jackals and buffalos). Apparently early morning and in the evening are the best times to see the animals.

The Big Five

The next day we had an early breakfast and were picked up at around 7.15am for an early start. The hotel provided us with a lunch box which consisted of a sandwich, cake, banana, crisps, yogurt and a drink. It was amazing to see so many animals in the wild and to be so close to them. The safari exceeded all of our expectations of what the safari would be like. We managed to see four of the big five (lion, buffalo, leopard and elephant). Unfortunately we did not get to see the rhino but may be next time.

Warthogs

The Warthogs were very funny to watch. Our driver Geeman told us about them having a very short memory. They would set off running and forget where they were running to and just stop. All the Warthogs are called Pumbaa to Kenyans. Most people would assume that this comes from the film Lion King but it doesn’t. Kenyans called the Warthogs Pumbaa long before the film. Pumbaa means “to be absentminded, careless, foolish, ignorant, lazy, stupid and negligent”. Part of the fun of the safari was looking for the rarer animals.

Wildebeest, Elephants and Buffalo

It was spectacular being in the middle of a herd of wildebeest and buffalos. Just sitting and watching the elephants cooling themselves and their babies with mud was amazing. In fact, just having the time to watch each animal in their natural environment being the creatures that they are was breath-taking. Although we are writing about our experience on the safari we are not sure if our words will truly do justice to what it was like to be there.

Masai Mara River

We stopped at the Masai Mara River and were able to get out of the jeep. We were accompanied by a ranger who had what looked like a tranquilizer gun. This river is where the wildebeest cross from the Serengeti to the Masai Mara. Unfortunately many of them don’t make it as they get drowned or eaten by the crocodiles. It was quite sad to see such a large amount of dead wildebeest in the river.

Across the river on the opposite bank were many hippos who were just laid bathing in the sunshine. We were aware that hippos are the deadliest land mammals on earth therefore we were glad that they were on the other side of the river and we had our ranger to protect us. It is estimated that hippos kill around 500 people a year in Africa.

The ranger guided us on a walk along the river bank where there were many monkeys running around. We even saw what looked like a spiderman lizard but was actually an African Redhead Agamas.

Lunch

We were taken to an area to have lunch which was provided by the lodge. Here there were some toilets but they were not very pleasant. The whole group of seven of us ate together. There were many monkeys hanging around waiting to take the food. Many of the Safari Jeeps had also stopped here for lunch. All of the guides spent their time chasing the monkeys away. We actually liked them and didn’t want them to be chased away but they may have had their reasons. Some of the monkeys would climb in to the open roof of the Jeep. When we were about to leave one monkey jumped in through the roof which scared some of our group but it was soon chased out by our guide.

Lions, Cheetahs and Leopards

Many of the animals are in plentiful supply in the Masai Mara including zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, buffalo, gazelles and warthogs but the lions, cheetahs and leopards are harder to find. When one of the rarer animals is spotted the driver informs the other jeeps by radio. Where there is a rarer animal you will find many jeeps watching and taking photos. We were fortunate to see all three of them.

The Masai Mara borders Tanzania. Our guide advised that it is dangerous to drive on the Tanzanian side as there are restrictions with severe consequences. He informed us that people have been known to have been shot for going in to Tanzania without permission.

Evening Meal at the Lodge

We returned to the lodge at around 6.30pm and changed for evening meal. The food was always good quality and clearly labelled as to what was on offer. Usually we would have a few drinks with our meal and then sit in the bar for a further one or two, or even more! Unfortunately the Lodge did not have a bar but they are in the process of building one. However it did have a nice sitting out area to have a drink. The drinks were very reasonably priced at around £2.50 a bottle. The weather did get a bit cold at night therefore we needed jackets. Due to the early start the following day we did not stay out late.

Masai Village

On our last day we were taken to a Masai Village. It cost $20 USD each to enter the village which is around £16.50. We had read not to take too much money on the Safari as some people had had money stolen. We need not have worried about this as our room had a safe and there were security staff walking around the lodge of an evening. Our itinerary for the Safari showed that the village was an optional extra and not part of the Safari cost. It also showed an early morning Safari on our last day which we did not do which was a bit disappointing. Due to this we had not taken enough money but Geeman (Guide) kindly paid it for us which we gave him back when we went to a cash point.

Tribe Dance

First the tribe showed us their dancing but then asked some of us to join in. They gave us sticks and cloaks to wear. This was great fun but was also very physical. How attractive a male is to a female is based on how high he can jump therefore the dance involved a lot of jumping up and down.

Fire Lighting

The tribe mentioned that they still start fires the traditional way using a stick, dried glass and flint stone. This was a lot more difficult than it looked. It was hard to keep the stick spinning fast enough to generate a spark. We weren’t sure why they didn’t just buy some matches or a lighter as it’s so much easier!

Mud huts

Each of us in our group were taken separately in to one of the homes to have a look inside. The mud huts are made from wood and elephant faeces. Surprisingly they didn’t smell. The tribe member who showed us his home said that he lived in the hut with his mother, father and six siblings. The hut was only small with a bedroom for parents and a bed in the living area for all of the children.

We were a bit shocked to see that there was electricity in the hut as we had thought that they lived in a totally primitive manner. He also informed us that all of the children go to school which they have to pay for hence why they charge visitors to enter the village. The villagers also earn money from selling the jewellery that they make.

Journey back to Nairobi

After our visit to the village we headed back to Nairobi. On our way back we called for lunch which was included in the cost of the trip. It was a buffet style lunch. Drinks were available for an additional cost but were very reasonable at around £2 for a bottle of lager or cider. We arrived at our hotel The Boma at around 4pm after dropping four of our group off at the airport. The other member of our group joined another group at the restaurant as he was going on to join another Safari.

Carnivore Restaurant

We booked the famous Carnivore Restaurant through Viator https://www.viator.com/ at a cost of £52 per person which included dinner and private transfer (drinks were an additional cost). We were picked up at 6.30pm by our driver Francis. He arrived in a very clean new black minibus style car. Francis was dressed in a Tux. We felt quite special having the luxury vehicle and Francis dressed in style. The journey from our hotel to the restaurant took around 30 minutes.

When we arrived at the restaurant we had to go through a security check. The vehicle was checked inside, outside and underneath.

In the restaurant we had our table for two hours of dining. This is a very popular and famous restaurant therefore all of the tables were reserved. When someone left the table was quickly taken by someone else. It is a large restaurant with many tables and hence it holds a lot of people.

Once escorted to our table we were offered the drinks menu. We ordered a bottle of wine at a cost of £25 which is a reasonable price for a restaurant. We were then asked if we wanted the doctor to come and give us some medicine in the form of a drink which we agreed to. The drink was a Dawa which is a traditional Kenyan drink. In fact the Dawa drink is credited to the Carnivore Restaurant. The cost was around £7 each which is also reasonable. We don’t think that we could have drunk many of these as they were quite potent.

Firstly our waiter brought out trays of sauces and salad. Then the meat carvers constantly came round with various meats including steak, chicken, turkey, sausage, liver, ribs, ostrich, crocodile and ox balls.

For each type of meat they brought round on skewers the carvers recommended which of the sauces were meant to accompany them. One of us (Debbie) thought the ox balls were potatoes and asked for five! All the meat is cooked on a huge open fire pit. The steak is cooked as you like it as at the beginning of the meal the waiter asks how you like your steak. The meat keeps flowing until you say stop.

The food, service and atmosphere at the restaurant was amazing. If you are in Nairobi then this restaurant is a must visit as not only was the food delicious but it is also a quite iconic restaurant.

Summary

The days on the Safari were very long with early morning starts and you are out in the wild until evening but it was definitely worth every minute. Our guide Geeman was amazing and his knowledge was extensive and made for a really informative trip. He was a really good driver and knew where to find the animals. He also was quite humorous which added to the whole experience. We are not sure how the other drivers and guides are but we feel that Geeman went out of his way to ensure we all had the best time possible. Due to being on the Jeep for several days with our group we got to know some lovely people and again this added to the experience as we all got on well and chatted and laughed together. This was truly one of the best experiences of our lives. Everything about this trip was amazing.

Things to do in Nairobi

• Go on Safari in the Masai Mara
• Visit the Carnivore Restaurant
• Visit Nairobi National Park
• Visit the Elephant orphanage
• Visit the Giraffe Centre
• Visit Amboseli National park
• Visit Kiambethu Tea Farm
• Visit a Masai Village
• Take a shopping tour
• Take a historical and cultural day tour in Nairobi

Top Tips

• Research Safari’s to ensure you get the best price and the Safari you want.
• Take hand sanitiser, sun cream, hat, mosquito spray, toilet wipes, plastic bag and ordinary wipes when going on Safari (There are no toilets in the middle of the Masai Mara therefore be prepared).
• Wear browns and greens on Safari as apparently insects are attracted to bright colours, blacks and blues.
• If going to a Masai Village take sweets, writing books and pens for the children.
• If going to Carnivore Restaurant via a tour operator check what is included as some only quote for the journey to and from the restaurant and don’t include the cost of the meal.
• When booking any Safaris or excursions check reviews and trust pilot for the tour operator to ensure it is a reputable company.
• When booking a hotel in Nairobi check that it is in a safe area with good security.
• Check out weather below for the best time to visit Nairobi as it has wet seasons.
• Check out other destinations we have visited in Africa. Please click on the following links Diani Beach, Tunisia, Hurghada, Sharm El Sheikh, Cairo, Cape Verde, Agadir
• Before traveling to Nairobi check the government safety and security advice https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/kenya

Weather in Nairobi

Temp – Celsius Rain – mm	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
High Temp	26	28	27	25	24	23	22	23	26	27	25	24
Low Temp	13	13	14	15	14	12	11	11	11	13	14	13
Rainfall	40	60	90	130	120	30	10	10	20	40	110	80
Number of days	6	4	9	13	12	5	5	6	5	7	16	10